No on likes to be left behind.
Failing education systems and team sports are one thing, but surely wine lists are entirely separate … except, that is, for some white wines.
Fellow wine enthusiast, Scott Arellano, started a conversation recently about grapes he termed “B-Team” varieties. Grapes that are often underappreciated, overlooked, or just pushed aside for those that have more notoriety. This got me thinking about what kind of B-Team white varieties exist in the Pacific Northwest, overshadowed by more popular pinot gris, chardonnay, riesling, sauvignon blanc, and others.
Grüner veltliner is one such variety that came up in conversation. Some people will, at the very least, associate the variety with Austria where it accounts for nearly one third of all the plantings. However, not much is grown in other parts of the world, let alone the northwest. Grüner—or “Groovy” as it is nicknamed by the hipper sommelier crowd—is known for producing high-acid, food-friendly wines focused on simple characteristics including citrus and stone fruit. Similar to Riesling, wines can range from dry to sweet, and be still or sparkling.
Syncline Winery seems to be one of the only wineries producing Grüner Veltliner with any consistency in Washington State, sourcing fruit from the Columbia Gorge AVA. Coincidentally, I picked up a bottle of the 2009 vintage at the Hop + Vine just a few days before the whole B-Team conversation got started. That, and with March being Washington Wine Month (leading up to Taste Washington!), this seems an appropriate choice.
Syncline 2009 Grüner Veltliner
Clear, bright, medium-plus lemon yellow with green tinges. Clean, medium intensity aromatics, citrus (lemon, lime, pithy), stone fruit (peach pit), melon, green apple, wet rocks. Dry, medium body, medium-plus to high acidity, medium alcohol, green apple skin, peach pit, lime zest, tropical fruit (grilled pineapple); medium-long finish. ($20 retail)
This wine was definitely a good price-quality value (just slightly more than you would pay at the winery) and would do well with a variety of foods. Given the acidity, fats and cream sauces come to mind, but I personally would prefer something that had a bright citrus and fresh herb combination—I’m thinking grapefruit and cilantro, or a zesty mignonette and some ice cold oysters.
What B-Team white grape varieties do you enjoy from the Pacific Northwest, and why?
Hear hear! I totally agree, I really enjoy the combination of fruit tones and minerality that GV provides. I was also impressed with Synclines offering, in fact all their whites. Besides imports from Austria I’ve only tasted it in the Gorge region of Oregon and Washington. Although I have heard there are some small lot examples or plantings in the Willamette Valley. So far I can’t confirm anything, please mention any other GV you come across as I would love to introduce this varietal to my customers.