The winery I work for produces a late harvest Riesling that makes me realize how wholly unappreciated dessert wines are. On any given day I can expect to encounter a visitor that claims to not like “sweet wine,” and opts to skip the last taste in the flight. I can’t help but think that these folks are seriously missing out because they are thinking about dessert wines in the wrong context—as something that might be sipped casually on the patio, coating the palate with sugar. Instead I like to encourage folks to think of dessert wine in a different context. And one of my favorites is in terms of blue cheese.
When you consider pairing a dessert wine with food, much of the time desserts—other sweet things—come to mind. However, if the sugar content of the dish overwhelms the perceptible sugar of the wine, the result is a sour tasting glass of wine. No good.
Instead, if the wine can’t simply be enjoyed on it’s own, an easy alternative is to choose more spicy, savory, or salty food options. Blue cheeses—such as Oregon Blue, Rogue River Blue, and Oregonzola to name a few Pacific Northwest favorites—fall under the latter two of these classifications, not to mention stinky (and delicious). The intense flavor, creamy texture, and brininess of these cheeses will compliment a sweet dessert wine wonderfully as acids in the wine cleanse the palate and the fruit flavors and sugars offer a contrasting sensation. Further, this balances the sweetness of the wine as well—some might perceive it as even being “less sweet”—making for an enjoyable experience in terms of food and wine.
Serve these wines chilled after a meal with friends, pouring smaller amounts than a typical glass of wine would contain. The cheeses are best served just slightly cooler than room temperature, providing yet another contrast to the chilled wine. The overall experience shouldn’t be the primary focus of the evening, but instead a perfect way to finish it. To heighten the pairing consider some fruits like pear, apple, or apricot along with a light drizzle of honey.
Here are several favorite white Oregon dessert wines worth seeking out for stinky blues.
ArborBrook Vineyards Sydney Sémillon
Kramer Vineyards Golden Gris
Phelps Creek Vineyards Vin Doré Dessert Gewürztraminer
Ponzi Vineyards Vino Gelato (Muscat and Riesling)
Raptor Ridge Blanchefleur Pinot Blanc (final vintage avail: 2005)
Soléna Late Harvest Riesling
Trisaetum* Lassa Late Harvest Riesling
Viento Select Harvest Riesling
[*Editors note: I am employed by Trisaetum]
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There’s a place for every type of wine, dessert wines are no different. Most are unfortunately looked upon as sugar bombs that over saturate the palate. Just like any wine pairing there needs to be a counterbalance between the two. Love stinks is a great way to accentuate that claim by showcasing two flavors some people can’t stand by themselves but complement each other when combined. Some of my favorite dessert wines are Seufert – Bella, Apolloni – Viognier, Girardet – Gewurztraminer and I second Solena – Riesling!