I’ve recently been fixated with seeking out local producers who make Müller-Thurgau. Some have told me that the wines made from this cross (genetically speaking, not in a crotchety way) is “too insipid” to drink, and best avoided. I’m of the opinion though that most wine will find some kind of market—look at the success of White Zinfandel in California.
Müller-Thurgau (that’s mew-ler ter-gow) has a poor track record in Germany, despite being the second most planted variety, and was the primary grape used to support the lake of Liebfraumilch being pumped out of Europe through the 80s. The idea behind creating the variety was to take the quality of riesling* and the reliability of silvaner and create an early-ripening, high-class workhorse for German vintners. Unfortunately it doesn’t seem Dr. Müller (left) got the cross quite right, and genetic research has shown müller-thurgau to be a cross of riesling and madeleine, a common table grape (1).
So while Müller is still widely produced in Germany (though waning in fashion) it has taken roots in other parts of the world with some success. Here in Oregon I’ve found that all examples, while not mind-blowing, are remarkably consistent in profile and characteristics. My notes are filled with thoughts of peaches and yellow apples. Medium texture, lower alcohol, and gentle acidity. I wouldn’t call these wines insipid by any means … they’re just not food wines necessarily given their lower acidity. But if what you seek is something easy-drinking, quaffable, and fun—not to mention affordable—then Müller-Thurgau should fit your bill nicely.
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Kramer Vineyards 2009 Celebrate Semi-Sparkling Müller-Thurgau, Yamhill-Carlton District ($15)
Clear, bright, pale golden-yellow in color. Clean nose, with medium-high intensity aromas of spice, fresh stone fruit, peach, sliced apple, and flowers. Medium sweet, medium-full body, medium-low acidity, light mousse (carbonated), medium flavors of fresh fruit, peach, pear, and pineapple. (www.kramerwine.com)
Kramer Vineyards 2008 Müller Thurgau, Yamhill-Carlton District ($10)
Clear, bright, pale water white in color. Clean nose, with medium-high intensity aromas of stone fruit, tropical fruit, and flowers. Medium dry, medium body, medium-low acidity, medium intense flavors of flowers, peach, candied citrus, and some spice.
Kramer Vineyards Non Vintage Essence ($20)
Clear, bright, medium-light gold in color. Clean nose, with medium intensity aromas of peach, flowers, tropical fruit, and perfumed soap. Medium sweet, medium-low acidity, medium body, medium intense flavors of peach, candied pineapple, sweet fruit, poached pears, and flowers.
Montinore Estate 2009 Müller-Thurgau, Willamette Valley ($10)
Clear, bright, medium straw yellow in color. Clean nose, with medium intensity aromatics of pear, yellow apple, peach, tropical fruit, melon, flowers, and minerality. Off dry, medium acidity, medium body, medium intensity flavors of pear, peach, honeysuckle, honey, lime zest, pineapple, honeycrisp apple, and stone. (www.montinore.com)
Anne Amie 2009 Cuvée A Müller-Thurgau, Willamette Valley ($12)
Clear, brilliant, golden-yellow in color with fruity aromatics including Golden Delicious apple, fresh pineapple, and canned pears. Somewhere between dry and off-dry with medium acidity and further fruity flavors. Apple, pear, lime, and candied citrus peel. (www.anneamie.com)
Henry Estate 2008 Müller-Thurgau, Umpqua Valley ($10)
Clear, bright, medium intensity lemon yellow. Clean nose, with medium intensity aromas of yellow apple skin, sweet pear, lemon, honeydew melon, and kiwi. Off dry, medium-low acidity, medium body, slight effervescence, medium intensity flavors of peach, canned pears, sweet Fuji apple, and candied lemon. (www.henryestate.com)
* – Where you find a lower-case name like “riesling” please note that I am referring to the grape variety specifically, rather than the varietal wine, “Riesling.”
1. Robinson, Jancis. “Müller-Thurgau.” The Oxford Companion to Wine. 3rd ed. Oxford: Oxford UP, 2006. 461-62. Print.
