Finding a Niche for Sauvignon Blanc in Washington

I should start by saying that Sauvignon Blanc is one of my absolutely favorite white varieties, especially in the summer time. Perhaps then, it was the blustery wine and bone-chilling rain that kept me from loving the two bottles of Washington Sauvignon Blanc I picked up tonight at my local Trader Joe’s. Or perhaps its just not yet found it’s place in the Columbia Valley yet.The two bottles in question are the Barnard Griffin 2008 Fumé Blanc ($8.99) and the Chateau Ste Michelle 2009 Sauvignon Blanc ($9.99), both from the Columbia Valley AVA. Interestingly enough each of these takes after, in theory at least, famed whites from France.

The term “fumé blanc” was created by Robert Mondavi who used it on his barrel aged California Sauvignon Blanc, making an allusion to Pouilly-Fumé from the Loire Valley. Based on the spec sheets for the Banard Griffin though this was fermented in 100% stainless steel. Here are my notes:

Clear, medium+ intensity straw yellow color. Clean, medium-light aromas of pear, vanilla, overripe melon, and pungent white flowers. Dry, medium body, medium-low acidity, with medium flavors of ripe pear, more melon, tropical fruit, golden delicious apple, and flint. A medium-light finish.

I know that I enjoyed this wine over the summer, popping the cork outdoors as we finished roasting some seasoned vegetables on the grill. The acidity paired well with the olive oil brushed over the veg, and was a nice refreshing palate cleanser. Here I wonder though if this vintage was meant just for summer consumption. The bouquet was somewhat lacking, and that bright acidity had faded considerably.

The Chateau Ste Michelle on the other hand takes the line of Bordeaux white blends, pairing 89% Sauvignon Blanc with 11% Sémillon. Ideally the latter would add a little density and roundness to the sharp edge of the SB. Here are my notes:

Clear, medium-pale gold color. Clean, medium-light aromas of pear eau-de-vie, yellow apple, artificial lemon/lime. Dry, medium body, medium acidity, slightly effervescent, with medium flavors of lemon zest and a soft grassiness. A medium finish.

In this case the acidity is definitely more noticeable, but still not as bright as I’d expect from a newly released wine. It’s no secret either that I’m a huge fan of Chateau Ste Michelle wines—I think we have a bottle of their Riesling or Gewürz at least 1-2 times a month as they pair perfectly with spicy foods and are incredibly affordable at $6-7 retail. This wine though was not as satisfactory given the simplicity of the aromas and flavors.

So this was just one trial for Washington Sauvignon Blanc. What are your recommendations? Do you think these are representative for the cost? Are there better value SBs being made in Washington? Please share your experiences!