People love to hate Chardonnay. If anything, it’s easy. We have been taught that Chardonnay is insipid, boring, and generic (thank you California). There’s tons of it being grown and it can be found almost everywhere. There is even a faction of folks that subscribe to the ABC principle of “Anything But Chardonnay.” However, in Oregon producers have spent the last two decades bucking that very anti-Chardonnay mantra.
Chardonnay arrived in Oregon via California, the same way many of the first pinot noir vines did in the 60s and early 70s. It was thought that by growing pinot noir and chardonnay in Oregon that pioneers could create an American version of Burgundy. However, it eventually became clear that those late ripening chardonnay clones which thrived in hot, sunny California were not exactly suited to Oregon’s cool and often damp climate. The Chardonnay that was being produced was accused of being harsh, lean, and overly acidic. Certainly not Burgundian, and definitely not ideal for showcasing Oregon’s growing ability.
In the mid-70s David Adelsheim visited Burgundy, and realized that the chardonnay being grown there was ripening much earlier—at the same rate as the pinot noir in fact. This realization lead to an effort to import clones directly from France in order to have grapes that were better suited to the Oregon climate. Despite initial disappointment after receiving the incorrect clones, a group of Oregon producers finally succeeded in bringing the earlier ripening chardonnay clones back to the Pacific Northwest.
These were termed “Dijon clones,” given their place of origin, and demarcated by numeric names. Those known as 75, 76, 77, 95, 96, 98, and 277 were introduced in the late 80s, and the first wines were being produced shortly after 1990. And what a remarkable difference. Wines that were fresh and fruity, with balanced acidity rather than that of under ripe grapes. Being mindful of new oak use, lees aging, and malolactic fermentation producers in Oregon are crafting balanced wines that offer adequate fruit and varying levels of texture and weight. Not the butter bombs of California that people think of when they hear “Chardonnay.”
Rather than shrugging off Chardonnay entirely, like the ABC folks, I say we ought to remember that not all wines are created equally. California Chardonnay didn’t fit Oregon, and certainly can’t be expected to fit every one’s palate. That said, why not try a different approach to your alphabet: Always a Befitting Chardonnay. If you’ve fallen into a rut with Chardonnay or avoided them, seek out an Oregon label. You might very well be surprised.
Some of my favorite Oregon Chardonnays
2008 Adelsheim Caitlin’s Reserve Chardonnay
2008 Cristom Germaine Chardonnay
2007 Kramer Dijon Chardonnay
2008 Seven of Hearts ElvenGlade Chardonnay
2008 Soléna Estate ElvenGlade Chardonnay
2009 Vidon Chardonnay
